Adding a Ruffle Sleeve to a Commercial Pattern
I am a Nana. A Nana that loves to sew for her grandbabies. I have two daughters with daughters. Cousins. A few weeks ago, one daughter asked me to sew baby (4 months) some summer tops. The other a romper – Size 12 months with a ruffle sleeve.
This is the story of how Nana, adapted a commercial pattern by adding a ruffle sleeve.
Hey, Mom – Can you make this?
Of course, I can!!
As soon as I get the text, I start to search for a pattern. Nothing!
Finally, I found a commercial pattern, McCalls 6944, that will serve both purposes. A cute top with panties AND a romper pattern all in one! But no ruffle sleeve!! Oh well, we will adapt and add ruffles. Let’s learn how…
Whether you are using this pattern or another, these instructions will teach you how to add a ruffle sleeve . Be sure your pattern uses a lined bodice or a facing at the sleeve. The ruffle is inserted between the two layers.
USING THE PATTERN TO CUT TWO DIFFERENT SIZES
If you want to reuse a pattern for two babies of different sizes (and maybe more outfits in the future), you won’t want to cut the pattern pieces on the individual size lines.
What you can do to save the pattern is photocopy the pattern or portion of the pattern where the pattern changes. Straight lines can be folded under on the cut lines. Using a combination of both, cut out your pattern pieces.
Remember you can only photocopy a pattern for your own use!!
Put aside the extra fabric for the ruffles!!
SEWING THE TOP
ALWAYS read the general instructions on the pattern. The sewing information will provide you with the seam allowance you will be using. In most cases, this is 5/8 of an inch.
I wasn’t too sure how I was going to do the ruffle but I had an idea! As the top was not going to have a ruffle, I decided to make it first and experiment with my idea.
What if we attach the straps to the shoulder seams BEFORE making them into straps. This will allow us to squeeze the ruffle between the two fronts and straps.
Sew the fronts and backs together per the pattern instructions. Do not make the straps but instead match the edges of the straps to the shoulders and sew the straps to the shoulder seams of the front and the lining.
Pin the lining to the upper section matching the side seams and the shoulder seams. Starting at the shoulder, sew along the neckline, up the straps, across the bottom of the strap, down the strap, across the back, up the other strap, across the bottom of the second strap and back down the strap to the start.
Now the moment of truth – could I turn it right side out? YES IT DID – Beautifully! Now you can go back and clip your curves and corners and press your seams.
(Remember my tip-Do not clip the curves, etc until you are happy things went as planned)
Although the pattern calls for understitching, I prefer the look of topstitching. If you do too, topstitch 1/8 of an inch from the edge all around the top.
Follow the pattern for the rest of the top!
MAKING THE RUFFLE SLEEVE
Project Two – The Romper.
As I mentioned before, you should be using a pattern that has two layers – a front and a lining or facing.
Step 1 – Mark your ruffle
Sew the front and back (in this case straps) together at the shoulder seams. Decide where you want the ruffle and mark.
Step 2 – Make a pattern
Measure the length of your ruffle – the distance between your marks. My ruffle was going to be 7 inches.
Decide which width you like. For me this was 2 inches.
On a letter sized paper, draw a rectangle as follows:
- Length x desired fullness divided by 2. I like a fullness between 2-3 times the length. This is how “ruffly” the sleeve will be. For this romper, I used 2-1/2 times. This is divided by two because we are going to cut on a fold so both ends of the ruffle will be the same. The result is that the length of my rectangle will be 7 x 2-1/2 divided by 2 or 8 3/4 inches.
- The width of the rectangle will be your desired width.
- Add 5/8″ seam allowance to all sides.
7″ length x 2-1/2 fullness = 17-1/2
Placing on fold x 1/2 = 8-3/4
Draw solid lines at 2-5/8 and 8-3/4, then add 5/8′ for seam allowance
Using something round to create a curve on each end. Place the object for the first line between the 2 sewing lines. Draw your curve. This will be your sewing line.
Next, place the object between the outer cutting line and inner sewing line (see picture). This will be your cutting line.
Step 3
Cut 4 ruffles from your pattern. NOTE: This will create a lined ruffle. If you choose, you may cut only 2 ruffles and hem the curved side.
Step 4
Place two ruffle pieces together right sides facing each other and sew curved side. Leave the other side open. Clip curves, turn to right side and press. Topstitch if desired.
Step 5
Gather the straight side. To gather, use the longest stitch on your machine to sew 2 rows of basting stitches 3/8 inch and 4/8 inch from edge of fabric. Do not cut your threads short – Leave tails.
You are going to gently pull two tails (one tail from each row of stitching) together at the same time until the ruffle fits between the marks on the top. Pin or baste in place.
Step 6
Sandwich the ruffle between the top and the lining or facing and sew together taking care not to catch the ruffle in the stitching. Remove pins and basting, turn right side out.
Finish romper per the pattern instructions.
Hey, Mom – Can you make this?
Of course, I can!!
How did you do? Let me know in the comments or send me a picture. And as always, if you have any questions, please ask in the comments or email.
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