This is the seventh of a ten part series which will teach you the basics of quilting from choosing fabric to displaying the finished product and everything in between. It is meant to help make that special quilt even more fantastic. This post is all about making your quilt “sandwich” by adding the batting and backing.
So you have decided to quilt your quilt yourself. By hand or on your domestic sewing machine. The quilt top has been sewn and is looking lovely. Now is the time to add your batting and backing and create your quilt “sandwich”.
Part Seven will guide you through the process of choosing your batting and backing, then putting your three layers together so they are ready to be quilted.
A quilt consists of three layers. Your quilt top, the batting which is your “filling” and what keeps you warm, and the backing. In the last six parts, we learned all about supplies, fabrics, cutting and sewing the quilt top. We also learned that once the quilt top was finished, you had a choice to either take the quilt to a long-arm quilter or finish the quilt yourself. Nana is assuming that because you are here, you want to learn to quilt the quilt yourself. Congratulations! Nana quilts all her quilts on her home domestic sewing machine. Glad you joined in…..
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STARTING WITH THE BATTING
Batting is the filler that sits between your quilt top and backing. It is what makes your quilt warm. Battings come in different types of fibers both natural and synthetic. Batting also comes is different “lofts”. The term “Loft” refers to how thick or fluffy your batting is. Low loft batting will create a flatter finish, and shows off your quilt top more than your quilting lines. High loft creates a puffy quilt with very visible quilting lines. If you are hand quilting, choose low loft no matter how amazing your stitches are… it’s just easier.
Whichever fiber or loft you use is a matter of personal choice, however, if you are hand quilting you should choose a low loft batting as it is easier to quilt. Lets look at some of the differences.
COTTON
Cotton batting is durable, easy to care for, and has a low loft for that traditional look. It is light, flat and thin but dense. Because cotton shrinks a bit, your finished quilt will become slightly wrinkly which creates a vintage antique appearance. 100% cotton batting will make your quilt feel a bit stiff at first but after lots of snuggles it will loosen up.
WOOL
Wool is moderately flat and easy to quilt. It is the warmest of the choices, is very fluffy and wears well. Wool usually comes at slightly higher cost. Caution: Wool will sometimes poke through the fabric. This is called “bearding” because it looks like your quilt is growing a beard. To avoid this, be sure to use high quality cotton for both your quilt top and backing and a brand new needle for quilting
SILK
Silk batting is very flat which allows it to drape beautifully. Although silk is lightweight it is still very warm. Silk is the most expensive of the battings.
BAMBOO
Another very expensive option is bamboo. Bamboo is very soft, it drapes nicely and because it dries quickly after washing, it doesn’t allow mold or mildew to form. Most bamboo batting comes blended with silk and/or cotton.
POLYESTER
Polyester batting is your cheapest option. If you like the look of thick, puffy quilts, then polyester is your choice.
BLENDS
Some common blends are 80/20 (Wool and Cotton) and poly/cotton. Blends usually combine the characteristics of both fibres. For example, the addition of polyester to cotton will make the batting slightly thicker and puffier.
Most of Nana’s quilts are made with Hobbs 80/20 Cotton/Poly blend.
SIZES
Battings come in common bed sizes as well as by the yard. Bed size battings are sold in packages as follows:
- Crib size – approximately 45 x 60
- Twin – approximately 72 x 90
- Full size – 81 x 96
- Queen – 90 x 108
- King – 120 x 120
Keep the batting package. It will give you lots of information such as washing instructions and how close your stitches should be when quilting.
The washing instructions should be included when gifting or selling your quilt.
BACKINGS
Nana published a detailed post on choosing your backing last year. Take a peek, then come back to find out how to make your quilt sandwich.
NOTE: Your backing and batting should be about 4-6 inches larger than the quilt top to allow for shrinkage during quilting.
SANDWICHING YOUR QUILT
Once you have purchased your batting and decided on your backing, it is time to create your sandwich. I am not talking BLT’s here but a good, old fashioned quilt sandwich.
Your sandwich will consist of the top and backing with the right sides facing outward and the batting sandwiched in the middle. The three layers are then basted together. It is important to keep all three layers smooth and wrinkle free to avoid any puckering during the quilting process.
A WORD ABOUT BASTING
There are three ways to baste a quilt – spray basting, pin basting and thread basting. Spraying the layers together works well for small quilts that you are basting using the tape/table top method (see below), but I prefer using pins or basting stitches for larger quilts.
Basting spray glues the layers of a quilt together temporarily until you can quilt them together with your sewing machine. It’ is fast and leaves fewer wrinkles than pin or thread basting and the glue washes out after the quilt is finished.
Spray basting can also be pricey at about $18 for a 12-ounce can. Plus, the spray is flammable and can be harmful to breathe in, so it should only be used in a well-ventilated area. If you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t use it at all.
Nana has to admit that she has NEVER used basting spray as I do not have an area available for me to sandwich my quilts that can handle the mess. In addition, certain fabrics do not adhere well with the spray.
Christa Watson from Diary of a Quilter has a great tutorial for spray basting a larger quilt using a wall. It looks very simple and I would love to try it one day (when I can find a wall to use).
If pinning your quilt sandwich, special quilting pins are available that are curved which allow your pins to go down through the layers and back up without problems. When using pins, you will have to remove them as you quilt, therefore, this method is slower that the other two.
If you have decided to thread baste your quilt, embroidery cotton or crochet thread works best as it does not break when pulling the stitches tight. Loosely stitch the three layers together. Stitches should be about 2 inches apart. Use a bright color that is not found in your quilt so you can easily find and remove all the basting when your quilting is done.
The more pins or stitches you use the less chance of your layers shifting and becoming wrinkled. USE LOTS OF PINS or STITCHES no more than 4-6 inches apart.
THREE METHODS TO MAKE A QUILT SANDWICH
The basic concept of creating a quilt sandwich is to have all your layers placed together in such a way that they are smooth and wrinkle free. Nana has used three different methods to create her “sandwich” depending on the size of the quilt.
NOTE: Whatever method you choose, be sure to press both the backing and the quilt top before starting to remove any wrinkles and to keep your sandwich smooth.
TAPE
This method is great for small quilts that you can easily put on a table top or floor. Simply tape your quilt backing right side down stretching it tightly to avoid wrinkles.
If you are using a table top, you may also use clamps to keep it in place. Next place the batting on top, and then the quilt top right side up smoothing each layer as you go. If you are using spray to baste, you will apply the spray between the layers as you place them together. Spray the quilt top before placing the batting, then spray the batting before placing the backing.
HINT: My preference is to sandwich my quilt with the quilt top facing down and the backing on top. The reason for this is that I quilt with the quilt top facing me so I am sure that there is no puckers in the top. However, when quilting, I do not see the backing. If the backing is wrinkle free during the sandwiching process, the less chance of puckering when sewing.
BOARDS
For this method, you will need two long planks to wrap your quilt around. I use my stretcher bars for this method (see below). Some even use pool noodles! This is the method I use most often.
With your backing fabric wrong side up on the table, wrap the fabric around the board. Make sure that you keep the ends even and that you smooth out any wrinkles as you go.
Unroll some of the backing onto your table, smoothing as you go. Place your batting on top and over the edge of your board. With the quilt top facing right side up, wrap it around the second board in the same manner.
Now placing the board with the quilt top in front of the board containing the backing, unroll the top onto the backing and batting and baste the three layers together.
Once this section is basted, pull it forward and let hang over the table.
Unroll your next section, smooth and baste. Basting as you go, keep unrolling and smoothing until the entire quilt is together.
STRETCHER BARS
For extra large quilts, that are bigger than the length of my table, stretcher bars are the answer. This method is time consuming but I find it is the best way to ensure that your large quilt is smooth and wrinkle free.
To make stretcher bars, you will need the following:
- Four 8 foot 1 inch x 2 inch wooden planks
- 4 pieces of muslin 8 feet long and approximately 8 inches wide.
- Staple gun
- Clamps
Staple one long end of the muslin to the plank. Roll the plank so the muslin covers all sides. Fold the other end of the muslin so there will be a half inch fold (fabric tab) on one side of the plank (see photo).
Staple in place.
Mark the center of each plank with a sharpie.
To set up your frame, you will need your stretcher bars and clamps. Nana used these C- clamps.
Measure your quilt top length and width and divide by two. Measuring from the center mark, clamp your bars together to create a frame equal to the length and width of the top.
Be sure your ½ inch fabric tabs are facing inward. Check to be sure your frame is square by measuring the frame diagonally. The measurement from corner to corner should be the same for each corner.
Pin your quilt top, right side down, to the ½ inch fabric tab. Find the center of each side of your quilt top. Start by matching the center of each side of the quilt to your center marks on the planks. Pin. Next pin the corners, then work your way around the quilt.
When done the quilt top should be so tight, you could bounce a ball on it.
Now layer your batting and backing on top of the frame and baste, smoothing from the center to the corners.
When done, unpin your quilt from the frame.
YOU ARE READY TO QUILT!
Once you have your sandwich, you can head over to the machine and get ready to quilt! Watch for Part 8 where Nana will give you tips on different methods of quilting your masterpiece!
