Your blocks are done!! And now it is time to put them all together and finish that gorgeous afghan you have been working very hard to create. This is the last of our twelve part series. To find links to all the posts, please see Part 1.

Today’s post is rather long as you will be learning two things.  How to block your squares and how to join your squares.  I have also included some links to borders should you decide to add a decorative edge to your afghan.

LET’S FINISH THIS MASTERPIECE!!

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BLOCKING

As you have been creating and learning, you may have been left wondering why your squares don’t look picture perfect. The answer is blocking! When you block your squares, the stitches relax and are set where you want them. A blocked item has a more finished, professional look and stretches and relaxes your crocheting to get the item to just the right size.  This is important for our afghan when we want all the squares the same size!  

There are a two methods you can use to block your squares – wet blocking or steam blocking.  I recommend that you try one block with steam and one block with wet blocking, and decide which one you like best.

We have been making squares 10 x 10 inches, however, we have been adding a border on each square of one SC.  This border adds 3/8 – ½ inch per side, therefore, we are going to block the squares to 11 x 11. HINT: It is not possible to make your squares smaller

Whether  you are wet blocking or steam blocking all blocks will be pinned to shape. Blocking squares are normally used, but can get rather expensive. There are many options to make your own blocks for much less.

I used foam carpet squares that I purchased at a local hardware store. I have seen them sold at dollar stores and don’t forget to look at garage and rummage sales.

With a felt marker, I have drawn the 11 x 11 inch squares onto the foam.

WET BLOCKING

For wet blocking, you will soak your blocks PRIOR to pinning. Then they are pinned in place, and left to dry.

Simply get your block completely wet in a sink or basin of water. Wrap the block in a towel and squeeze out excess moisture. DO NOT WRING. It should be more wet than damp (just not dripping wet) when you lay it out to block.  Lay on the blocking board, gently coax your block to shape while wet and pin.

Use longer pins and pin lots!! Leave to dry.

Wet blocking works best for wool and cotton, however, not for acrylics. Acrylics need the heat. Although wet blocking is easier (pin and leave) it takes more time to wait for the blocks to dry. This method works best for garments such as sweaters, scarfs, etc.

STEAM BLOCKING

For steam blocking, the squares are pinned in placed, then steamed and left to cool.

SEWING TOGETHER

Once blocked, lay your afghan out – move blocks around until you are happy with the look and join together.  With the exception of the flat braid join (see below), you will be joining five squares together to make 6 rows, then joining these six rows together to complete the afghan.

There are several methods you can use to join your blocks.

First, place your squares side by side and take a look at the loops.  For all the methods, you will need to decide which loops you would like to use as each creates a different look. 

You may choose to go through the outer loops (front loop of square facing you and back loop of square furthest away) or the inner loops (back loop of square facing you and front loop of square furthest away) or coordinating loops (both back loops or both front loops).  You may also go through all four loops but this creates a bulkier seam.

You will not have the same number of stitches in each square you are joining, therefore, you will need to evenly space your stitches across the rows.

Using a yarn needle

Basically you can sew your pieces together using a yarn needle.  This is the method used most often to sew your pieces together when making garments such as sweaters, dresses or hats.  There are two basic stitches that can be used – a whip stitch or a mattress stitch.  

Either hold the two squares right sides together or lay them side by side right sides down, on a table.  Using your needle and yarn simply sew through the loops. 

For the whip stitch you will sew only from ONE direction from front to back (or from only one side to the other if laying out on a table) continuing down the side of the square. 

For the mattress stitch you will alternate sewing front to back, then back to front OR left to right, then right to left.

Slip stitch

To join the squares together using a slip stitch, you will use your crochet hook and slip stitch on the WRONG side of your squares. 

Use the same crochet hook you used to make your squares. Join yarn at top of square, chain one. While holding the squares RIGHT side together, make a slip stitch through the loops of both squares.

Single crochet

This join is made on the RIGHT side of the fabric, meaning that you will see the stitches. 

Easy to do, holding your blocks WRONG sides together, simply join yarn at corner, chain one and SC down entire block.

Use can also join in this way with other stitches such as a double crochet, seed stitch, etc.

Flat Braid join

Although this is more complicated, this join provides a border and join at the same time. It is the method I have chosen to join my afghan together.  This method is continuous, meaning, you do not break the yarn after joining each square but rather you will continue joining all squares together. 

The flat braid join uses two rows to join the squares.  The following diagram shows you the “route” you will take to join the entire afghan.

STEP 1 – Start at the top right corner of the afghan. Attach yarn in the first (far right) stitch of the corner.  (If you remember, all corners of our edging have 3 single crochets). Chain 5, then SC into the last stitch (far left) of the corner.  All the corners will be Chain 5. 

STEP 2 – Evenly space 16 – *Chain 3, SC*  across the row making the last SC into the first (far right) stitch of the corner. Chain 5, then SC into the last stitch (far left) of the corner.   Repeat down the side of the square ending with the last SC into the first stitch of the corner.

STEP 3 – ATTACH 2^nd SQUARE At next corner, Chain 5, then SC into the last stitch of the corner of the second square.

Chain 1.  Take out the hook and insert it through the loop made with the last Chain 3, Pull the yarn through the loop, then Chain 2, and SC into the second square.  Do this for all the loops down the side (16 times) ending with a SC in far right stitch of corner.    At the top corner, Chain 2, remove hook, insert hook into the corner Chain 5, pull yarn through loop, Chain 3, then SC in far left stitch of corner.

Repeat Step 2 across the top and down the side of the second square.

Using Steps 2 and Step 3 attach the rest of the blocks in the Row. 

STEP 4 – CROCHET ACROSS THE BOTTOM OF THE ROW.  Turn corner with Chain 5 and SC into last stitch of corner. (far left).  Continue the Chain 3, SC across the bottom making 16 loops per square.  When you reach two square corner join, make your last SC into the first stitch of the corner, CH 3, SC into the Chain 5 loop that joins the two squares together, then SC into last stitch of corner of the next square.

STEP 5 – JOIN BLOCK SIX and MAKE A THREE CORNER JOIN.  At the end of the row, attach Block 6 in the same way you attached the second square in Step 3 and continue as you did in Step 3 to join the first side of the square.  When you reach the corner of the square where the three blocks come together, make a SC in the first stitch (far right) of the corner, CH2. You will see 3 loops where the two blocks are joined.  Insert your hook into the farthest loop, diagonal from the corner you are working on.  Chain 3, then SC into the last stitch of the corner of the sixth block.  Turn and continue down side of Block Six.

STEP 6 – JOIN BLOCK SEVEN and MAKE A FOUR CORNER JOIN – Add Block Seven per Step 3 until you reach the top corner.  When you reach the corner where 4 blocks come together, SC into first corner stitch, Chain 2. Remove the hook and insert it into the farthest loop diagonal from the corner (see Picture).  Chain 3, then SC into farthest stitch in corner of Block Seven. 

Continue to add the blocks one by one and in rows following the diagram above.

NOTE:  There are different “braid” methods that can be used but the basic principle is the same.

BORDER

If you desire, you may add a border all the way around your afghan.  This is a matter of personal preference.  I did not add a border because I used the flat braid join to join my squares together and like the look of the chain loops without a further border. I may decide to add another row of CH 3, Single crochet into the loop of previous row.

Some additional ideas for a border include:

• Another row (or two) of SC around the afghan
• Shell stitch around the afghan
• For more, see Nana’s Pinterest Board “Crochet borders” . I will keep adding interesting borders as I find them.

You may also Google “Crochet borders” and  you will find hundreds of variations.  My suggestion – pick one you like and go for it.  You should be a seasoned hooker by now!!

NANA’S FINAL WORDS!

Crocheters are often discouraged from trying a new pattern because it is rated higher than what they think their own skills are. Don’t underestimate yourself and don’t be afraid to try new patterns! Just because you feel you are at one skill level and the pattern may be rated higher, it doesn’t mean that you won’t be successful with the pattern. You’ll never know what you can accomplish until you try.

To help assure your success, read all the way through the pattern before beginning your project. Practice any special techniques and stitches to be sure you know how to do them. When you’re confident that you understand them, dive in and have fun!

MY SPECIAL GIFT!!

As a Thank You for crocheting along with me, I am giving away a copy of my e-book “Learn to Crochet with Nana K”. The book is a compilation of all twelve posts in the Learn to Crochet series. This offer will only be available for the month of December as a PDF dowload. After that, the e-book will be for sale for a small fee.

To receive your free copy, be sure you are subscribed to Nana’s newsletter. I will provide a link to the download each week throughout December. I will also let you know in my newsletter as soon as the e-book is published and ready for sale.

I want to thank all of you that joined our crochet-a-long.  Hopefully you learned to crochet with confidence to try all those combinations of stitches out there in the crochet world.  I would like to keep our Facebook page up and running, by sharing new things we learn in the future, free patterns to try, items we have made and sales we find.  It will be a great community for all of Nana’s hookers!!