General Instructions

Woohoo!  You have purchased your yarn and hooks and are ready to begin to learn to crochet. 

The Learn to Crochet is under way and I am so excited!  We have a number of new hookers out there ready to join in.  

As I said in Learn to Crochet – Part 1, we are going to start on three blocks month, but when I started to write this  month’s blog, there were so many “general” instructions the blog was way too long.  So, we have two blogs today.  Part 2A – which will be the general instructions and Part 2B where we will begin to Learn to Crochet!

LET’S START CROCHETING!!!

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Some of the things we will be learning this month, will be used throughout the series.  These are the things you will find on this post (Part 2A).  

Abbreviations

This month, we are going to start with 3 squares; all using two basic stitches-the chain stitch (CH) and the single crochet (SC).  Notice the abbreviations in brackets.  You are going to see these throughout this series.   – Learn them!  All patterns are written in shorthand using these abbreviations.  You can find a list of these abbreviations on the “Crochet Basics” page.

When I come across something important, I will highlight it as a “tip” and add it to the “Crochet Basics” page.  If you have problems with ANY of these instructions,  leave a comment or email me.

If there is another item that pops up in future posts that should be part of these “general” instructions, I will add them to this post so all your references are on one page.

Holding the Hook

The hook is generally held in the right hand. Even lefties can learn to crochet this way or they can reverse the instructions. There are two ways to hold the hook.  

In the pencil method you hold the hook as you would a pencil, grasping the hook between your thumb and index finger.  OR, the knife method.  In the knife method, place your right hand over the hook and grasp it between your thumb and index finger to begin. The left hand is used to control the yarn and to hold the stitches as they are created. 

Use whichever method feels more comfortable to you. 

Slip Knot

To attach the yarn to the hook you will use a slip knot. Make a loop shape 5″ or 6″ from the end (the tail) by placing the tail in front of the ball yarn, then letting the rest of the tail yarn fall slightly behind the loop. Insert your hook into the loop. Scoop up the yarn in the back of the loop with the hook. Pull through the front of the loop. Gently pull the tail yarn to tighten loop around the hook. then pull another loop through it. Gently tighten sliding the knot up to the hook. 

Slip Stitch – (not to be confused with a Slip Knot)

A slip stitch (SL ST) is used to join stitches that are worked in rounds such as a granny square. 

To make a slip stitch,  insert hook under the top 2 loops of the next stitch, place yarn over hook and draw yarn through both  the loop created by the yarn over and the stitch on your hook. 

Attaching new yarn or changing colors

If you are changing colors or attaching a new ball of yarn it is best to do so at the beginning of a row.  Crochet your last stitch until there are 2 loops left on your hook. Leaving a tail, place the new yarn on the hook, hold it into a loop  and pull through the 2 loops on your hook. You will now have one loop of the new yarn on the hook.  

Turning Chain

NOTE:  When you crochet in rows, you begin the row with a turning chain. The height of the turning chain depends on the height of the crochet stitch.  For the single crochet (SC), the turning chain with be Chain 1 (CH1).  So everytime you reach the end and turn around you will Chain 1 (CH1).   When you begin the first row, you don’t need to chain more because you’re already working into a chain.  This will become clear when you start crocheting and most patterns incorporate this stitch into the instructions.

Gauge

One VERY important step when when you learn to crochet especially when crocheting from a pattern is to check your gauge.  This is especially important if you are making something that needs to fit such as a sweater, hat or booties.  It is not as important for an afghan, potholder, etc. as the size does not need to be precise. 

Every pattern will specify a gauge.  It is worth taking the time to check it.  Because I crochet tightly, I have made sweaters that are WAY to small and after all those hours you do not want that disappointment. 

TO MAKE THE AFGHAN

For our afghan we need to end up with squares of 10” before adding the edging.  If your gauge is different, you may either add or subtract stitches or rows or change your hook size.  You are welcome to make your blocks different sizes as well, as long as they are all the same size.

For our afghan, only the stitch gauge is important.  To measure your gauge, crochet using the specified stitches for 5 to 6 rows.   Lay your crocheted piece out – trying not to stretch it – and check if you are 10 inches wide.  If not, count how many stitches there are within 4″.  Multiply this by 2.5.  (4″ x 2.5 equals 10 inches).  This is how many stitches you will need to end up with a 10 inch wide block.  

You may also change your hook size.  If your work is larger than 10 inches, try using an H/8 or 5 mm hook.  Try a J/10 or 6mm hook, if it measures smaller.

Making Something That Needs to Fit

When making something that needs to fit, the pattern usually tells you how many stitches and how many rows you need to make 4 inches.  In this case, you will need to make a gauge swatch.  You may hate them but they are necessary to avoid frogging your work. 

LOL – you just learned your first crochet slang word.  Frogging means ripping out your work – RIP IT, RIP IT, sound like RIBBIT, therefore, the term “frogging” was born!

To check gauge for a pattern, simply crochet until you have a section approximately 4″ wide, then continue crocheting in rows until you get to 4″ square.  Next count the number of stitches and rows in an exact 4″ square. If you find that your swatch has more stitches and rows than the gauge, change to a larger hook and try again. If you have fewer stitches and rows in the area, try a smaller hook. Keep changing hook size until you arrive at the proper gauge. 

READY TO LEARN TO CROCHET YOUR FIRST SQUARE?   Continue reading