Learn how to work with Stretchy Slippery Fabric including Double Needle Hems while making these baby leggings.

My lovely daughter asked me to make some tights for her new baby girl.  There was not much choice of stretchy fabric available in the winter months but I did manage to find a leopard print.  Can babies wear leopard print?  Actually it looks adorable!!

Normally, I only talk to myself when I swear and I talked to myself a lot when making these because my fabric was VERY slippery.  But it was a learning process that I wanted to share with you…

Working with the baby leggings pattern and tutorial from ToddAh.net  I wanted to use a double needle for hemming.  So I adjusted the pattern slightly.

Because this pattern includes sizes 6 months – 2T  I decided to make a pair for both my new granddaughters (they are cousins)

The pattern states you can use scrap fabric but I had nothing in my stash.  I purchased ½ meter of this lovely leopard fabric which made 2 pairs  (U.S. readers can purchase ½ yard).

Tips for sewing Stretch Fabric

The baby leggings pattern and tutorial was very easy to follow, but here are the tips for sewing with stretchy, slippery fabric that I learned while making these baby leggings:

• Use the stretch stitch setting on your machine.  If you don’t have this setting, set your machine to a small zigzag (.5). This helps to maintain the stretch of the fabric.
• Pin LOTS or hand baste to keep the fabric from slipping
• Do NOT pull the fabric when sewing
• I prefer the look of the double needle hems, therefore I changed the pattern (slightly)

CHANGES TO THE BABY LEGGINGS PATTERN TO USE DOUBLE NEEDLE 

I used a double needle to hem the leggings and at the waistband for the elastic casing.  This makes a much neater looking top stitch. 

Twin needles come in different sizes and types.  You should use universal twin needles for woven fabric and stretch twin needles for knit fabric.  Notice that there are two numbers indicated on the package. One is the space between the needles and the other is the needle size.  

Here’s how to use your double needle.  

Threading the needles  

Put one thread on each of two spindles on your machine.  You will be using the main spindle as well as the spindle used for winding your bobbin.  Thread one of the threads as usual keeping the thread to the right and threading through the eye of the right needle.  Thread the second thread the same keeping your thread to the left.   If you don’t have two spindles, place a bobbin below your spool of thread (see picture).  NOTE: Only one bobbin thread is used.

Sewing the seams

To get a finished look, you need to sew on the right side of the fabric.  

FIRST:   I suggest you do a practice run (or two or three) to get your tension right.  Be sure to right down your current tension setting so you can adjust it back to normal!!  A lower tension will give you less tunneling but also less stretch.

SECOND:  The needles are not in the center of your feed which differs from normal sewing.  You will, therefore,  need to adjust your sights!! Most stretch twin needles are 4.0mm apart or approx 3/16 of an inch.   To have my stitching centered, I subtracted  1/8” off of the measurement for my LEFT needle.  

Here are my pattern changes:   

When cutting the pattern, add an extra 1/2 inch to the length of the leggings so you have a bigger hem.

Step 3 and 4: (Hem) Turn under 1 inch (here’s where you need the extra half inch).  With right side UP!  Sew around hem with your double needle.  To have your LEFT needle 3/4” from the edge,you will use the 5/8” guide.  The right stitching will be 1/2” from the edge.

Step 9 and 10:When sewing the top elastic casing , you will turn the fabric under 1-1/4 inch.  Turn fabric to right side.   To have the left needle 1 inch from the edge of the fabric, you will use the guide at 7/8 of an inch.  This will put your right stitching at ¾  of an inch.  Sew around the waistband leaving the small opening for the elastic.

Easy-peasy!!   What was I so afraid of??

BONUS HEAD BAND

Leftover fabric?  Me too!   I made this cute little  matching headband – follow along!

Cutting Instructions

One thing you may have learned when making the leggings is that the fabric stretches more one way than the other.  In fact, some stretch fabrics only stretch in one direction.  It is very important to cut the length of the fabric with the stretch. 

From your scrap fabric, cut a rectangle piece of fabric as follows:

Width of the fabric will be 3-6 inches

• Width of the fabric will be 3-6 inches
• A 3” strip will give you a headband 1-1/4” wide. 
• 4 inches =1-3/4” 
• 5 inches=2-1/4”
• 6 inches=2-3/4”

To determine the length of the rectangle, see the chart below.  Add ¾” for seam.  I was making mine for an 18 month old girl whose head I measured at 18”.  Therefore, I cut my rectangle 15 + ¾ inches by 3-1/2 inches

Sewing instructions

Using a stretch stitch (or small zig zag) sew the fabric down the long side forming a tube.  Turn the tube right side out.

Get creative

Gorgeous – right?

I hope you enjoyed this post and learned something new to help you with the stretchy fabric.  The picture also shows a matching infinity scarf that I made to go with this outfit.  Stay tuned for my post to make one of those too!!